Hokkaido | Japan
Hokkaido boasts some of the most stunning views in all of Japan, and it’s even more breathtaking in person. Along with stunning views and changing leaves, we had some of the most amazing fresh seafood on earth, particularly scallops, crab, and uni (sea urchin). Hokkaido is also known for their milk and milk products, so we made it a point to eat as much milk-flavored ice cream as possible (for science!) - I’ve ranked our favorites below! For this leg of our trip, we decided to make Sapporo our base as we visited smaller cities in the surrounding areas (Otaru, Jozankei, and Niseko). Along with the views and good food, we also made a stop at a luxury ryokan (traditional Japanese resort) to soak in the onsen (natural hot spring baths) and for of course, more good food. I’ll be putting together a separate post detailing our amazing stay!
Sapporo
Mt. Moiwa - Located in Sapporo, this mountain was incredibly close to our Airbnb. Since we had rented a car, we first drove up as far as possible to the rest stop near the top of the mountain, at which point we had two routes to choose from: a short hiking trail or a cable car ride the rest of the way to the top. We opted for the hike (it wasn’t too bad), and made it to the peak perfectly in time for sunset. At the peak, we were able to look out over the city, as well as the forests of tress with changing leaves that surround Sapporo.
Nogami - For those not familiar with ‘shokupan’, it’s fluffy, soft, milky, white bread that consists of delicate layers on the inside. Originating in Hokkaido, Nogami’s loaf previously won an award for being the “Bread of the Year.” Justifiably, it’s often sold out and can be fairly difficult to get a hold of if you don’t go close to opening - but if you’re a bread-lover, this is definitely a loaf you don’t want to miss!
Korombia - ‘Yakitori’ is basically Japanese for “grilled chicken”, but it’s so much more than that. Charcoal-grilled skewers of every part of thee chicken imaginable, it’s one of my favorite types of Japanese food. Korombia is a small, pub-like establishment in downtown Sapporo that was recommended to me by a fellow foodie-friend, and it definitely did not disappoint. They don’t however have non-smoking seating, so be prepared to breathe in a bit of secondhand smoke while you’re enjoying some of the best chicken you can find in a pub.
Teuchi Soba no Taguto - While soba is typically a pale brown color with black flecks, the soba here is of a different sort with its translucent white color and smooth texture. Their most popular way of serving their soba is on ‘seiro’ (a bamboo tray that the noodles are placed upon), alongside a variety of different dipping sauces (we tried the chicken & duck - both were delicious!) and tempura.
Otaru
Kitano Donburi - If I had to choose my favorite meal in Hokkaido, this would probably be it. While there’s many seafood markets that offer ‘donburi’ (rice bowls with various toppings, in this case, fresh seafood), this was our favorite we had for a variety of reasons. The biggest reason for me was that the quality of rice at Kitano’s was far better than all of the others, including places that were highly rated at popular seafood markets in Sapporo. Another was the options offered - many seafood donburi restaurants typically offer set combinations of seafood or one-type bowls (i.e. uni + crab, or all uni), and customization is not allowed. I found that their set combinations often either included items I wasn’t that interested in, or most of the items I wanted to eat but not all. Kitano Donburi however offers options where you can select what size bowl, as well as several types of seafood according to your preference. I was able to choose a combination of uni, scallops, and crab, which I loved! They also offer an amazing crab miso soup, which I would say is also a must. Being a small, seaside port town, the seafood donburi we had in Otaru was also fresher and cheaper than Sapporo!
LeTao - If you’re a fan of cheesecake, stopping by LeTao is a must. My husband, who LOVES cheesecake, finished almost an entire cake on his own within the 4 days we were there (and then we may or may not have bought a few more frozen ones at the airport in Tokyo to bring home). They also sell a variety of other cheese-flavored snacks which although not quite as good as their cheesecake, are all still very good. They’ve opened several stores/cafes in Otaru each with a different focus, all very close to each other, so be sure to visit all of them!
Mt. Tengu - Similarly to Mt. Moiwa, Mt. Tengu is located just outside Otaru and offers a view of Otaru and the coastline. There’s a cable car that can take you to the top or alternatively, there’s also a parking lot at the very top. Next to the rest station, they also have an area where you can hand-feed chipmunks!
Otaru Canal - Beautiful in all season, but particularly in autumn, the Otaru Canal is a popular photo attraction known for the old, vintage buildings that line the canal. In autumn, the exteriors are covered in climbing vines of green and red hues, creating a picturesque (almost European) view perfect for photos.
Jozankei
Futami Suspension Bridge - A bright red bridge that spans across a tree-covered valley split by a shallow river, the Futamai Suspension Bridge is the perfect place for a view of the valley. We arrived in Jozankei a little too early for the height of autumn when the entire valley is lit up in bright oranges, reds, and yellows, but the greens touched by hints of orange were still beautiful!
Hoheikyo Dam - The dam is another popular spot, particularly in autumn, for a view of the fall foliage Hokaido is so well-known for. Although I’m sure it’s still beautiful in other seasons, I think this spot is skippable if it’s not fall!
Milk ICE CREAM
#1 And Initial - This was our favorite milk ice cream, hands down, out of all the ones we tried in the Sapporo region. It was strong in flavor, while not feeling overly fatty or icy. Smooth, creamy, and the perfect balance of sweetness that let the milk flavor Hokkaido is known for shine through.
#2 BARNES - While just as strong in flavor as And Initial’s soft serve, the ice cream at BARNES was much heavier and thicker than And Initial’s, making it more difficult to finish an entire serving. I know a lot of people prefer the heavier, creamy mouthfeel which is why I would still highly recommend BARNES, but it fell just short of And Initial for us.
#3 Yamanaka Dairy Farm - Their soft serve was very similar in taste to And Initial, but the texture was icier and less creamy. Their main shop is at a farm a little ways outside Otaru, but they also have a second storefront close to the Otaru Canal. They offer a chocolate swirl option as well, which is pictured above.
#4 Hokkaido Agricultural Technical College Farmers’ Market - Similar in texture to And Initial but not as strong in flavor, we ranked this as the lowest since milk ice cream is all about the flavor. This dairy farm is also an agricultural school, so the dairy and produce they sell is actually cultivated on site and sold fresh! There’s also an assortment of cute, white benches outside and a large lawn area, so it’s a great place to relax and enjoy some ice cream.
Travel Tips
While public transport is fairly convenient in large cities like Sapporo, I highly recommend renting a car when visiting Hokkaido so that it’s easier to travel to different cities. A lot of the attraction of Hokkaido is its beautiful landscape, and many of the most picturesque places are far away enough from cities (1+ hours) that it becomes much more convenient to drive than to take a bus or train. For us in California, it’s quite a simple process to acquire an international driver’s license. Parking is also available at many places throughout Hokkaido, which makes it hassle-free to drive from place to place.